The Keisei Skyliner, which transported us from
Narita Airport to Ueno Station in an hour's time, is a fantastic way of
traveling from the airport into Tokyo proper.
Once at Ueno Station, we were met by Mayumi,
Bob's longtime JapanBall partner, and she procured taxis to the hotel for us.
She's done this before, so she knew exactly where to go to catch a taxi
(figuring that out would've taken a few minutes on our own), and she told
driver in Japanese where to take us.
Resisting the urge to crash on our larger-than-expected hotel bed, Marc and I
showered and walked around the neighborhood to wake up. We then met the
group at 8pm in the hotel lobby for a short walk to Cafe Roje, dubbed by Bob
and Mayumi as the JapanBall Hall of Fame, where
we ate ramen, yaki soba, and fried rice served by Jun, a look-alike of former
Japanese Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi.
Now, almost two hours later, I sit at the computer, wondering how it's
possible I'm still awake, as Marc is lying on the bed asleep, mouth open and
breathing deeply, a Tokyo guidebook resting on his chest.
Tomorrow looms large with great promise: a
brief tour of the city in the morning and our first game of Japanese baseball.
JapanBall:
Tokyo Sightseeing
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Day Two began with Marc waking up at 5:15am and going for a run. I
couldn't bear the thought of emerging from the covers until at least 6:30.
The JapanBall group met in the hotel lobby later that morning for a bit of
sightseeing around Tokyo. Bob Bavasi bought train tickets for those of us
whose Rail Passes weren’t yet active.
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It’s so nice to have someone who has been to Tokyo as
many times as Bob has because he does everything for us. It
takes a lot of the stress out of figuring out the maps and ticket machines.
Marc and I have done this many times and are quite capable,
but it always takes us a while to wrap our heads around the directions.
It put us at ease to have Bob do all the guesswork for us. Besides,
we’ll have plenty of time on our own to wrestle with Japan’s public
transportation system once the baseball tour is over.
I love wandering around Tokyo. Although Marc and I have been
to the Ginza, it was nice to see it again through the eyes of people who have
never been. And I always relish the chance to see the
Kabuki Theater. I have taken dozens of pictures of this
structure, but each time I see it, I take more. It’s almost as if I discover a
new little detail that I hadn’t noticed. We marveled over the crowd of people
waiting in the muggy air outside of the theater.
After our walk through Japan’s famous shopping center, we found a different
kind of shopping area in the Ueno section of Tokyo. Ameyayokocho
has its roots in the post–World War II black market, and it is still a
thriving shopping arcade. Goods such as clothing, jewelry,
and all kinds of food are on display.
Later we walked through nearby Ueno Park's tree-lined
corridors and, as, luck would have it, we ran into a parade. Elaborate
floats were carried on the shoulders of young men and women wearing colorful
happi coats. We have no idea what the parade was celebrating, but it was
fun to watch.
The group reconvened at the massive Ueno Park train station
to head back to the hotel. Marc and I bought bread at Andersen Bakery to
eat when we were in our rooms. After a quick nap, we were ready to see our
first Japanese baseball game.
JapanBall
- Game 1: Yomiuri Giants at Yakult Swallows
"I can’t believe you baseball fans spent all this
money to go to the other side of the world and spend the game talking to each
other instead of watching the game. You could accomplish the
same thing in an airport bar."
I suppose my husband, who is not a baseball fan, was right when he said this.
Yes, the purpose of the trip is to experience baseball in another country,
but when a group of people from all parts of the U.S. gets together, there tends
to be more talking about baseball than watching it.
Frankly, there's a lot going on inside a Japanese
professional ballpark; I was easily distracted from the game by the fans with
their chants and their bands, the beer girls and other vendors, the mascots and
dancing cheerleaders, the food.
It's sensory overload, much in the same way that Tokyo
itself is overwhelming the first (and second and third and fourth) time on
visits.
Sight: The amazing scoreboard.
Sound: Drums, trumpets, chants for each player.
Taste: Chicken kara age and a cold Yebisu.
Smell: Fried food and bento boxes from concessions.
Touch: Sweaty, clammy skin in the Tokyo humidity.
And I caught a foul ball!
Well, I didn’t actually catch the ball; I picked it up
off the ground after it nearly hit fellow JapanBaller Rick. I
offered him the ball, saying that since it almost hit him, it should be his.
He declined and told me the ball was mine.
Bob Bavasi, the founder of JapanBall and the leader of our
tour group, said that his father, the late Buzzie Bavasi of Brooklyn/Los Angeles
Dodgers fame, once broke his leg while putting on his underwear.
Bob told his father that he didn’t need to tell anyone how
the leg was broken. Therefore, I needn’t mention in the
future how the foul ball came into my possession; the important thing is I have
it.
I’m learning more about Japanese baseball, even if I'm not watching every
pitch. Wayne Graczyk, an ex-pat who has been involved in writing about
Japanese baseball for more than 30 years, told me why the games here
sometimes end in ties.
Games in Japan do go extra innings, but 12
is the limit. It’s because the majority of fans take public
transportation to games, and the subways don’t run 24 hours. The
officials at Nippon Professional Baseball recognize this and don't want their
fans stuck in a ballpark in the middle of the night.
I'm looking forward to learning more about Japanese
baseball in the coming days and sharing it with everyone. More from Kyoto
as we take in games in Nagoya and Osaka.
JapanBall:
What Day Is It? I'm Really Behind!

I'm
in my hotel in Kyoto on Monday writing about riding the shinkansen bullet train
to Kyoto. Which actually happened two days ago. The interesting part
about writing this blog (and for
YESNetwork.com) means that I should write every
day. Hmm, this leads to a delicate balance between the time management of
experiencing everything and then writing about it.
So
let's see if I can catch up. The group rode the shinkansen from Tokyo to
Kyoto. As we checked out of hotel, Bob and Mayumi had cabs lined
up to take us to Tokyo Station. Again, I can’t describe enough how
pleasant it is to have these little details taken care of. There are no
worries when it comes to transportation.
I bought a bento box at the
rail track. We managed to find the space behind the last seat on the
shinkansen to store our luggage. (Marc ended up stacking our big suitcase
on top of a fellow group member’s.)
I admit that I’m a notorious
over packer, but on this trip we did very well considering we’re staying in
Japan the entire month. Luckily, there is good overhead space, so we put
our smaller bag up there, but there were a lot of people who were traveling with
fairly large suitcases.
I love looking out the window
of the bullet train as it speeds through Japan’s countryside. Once
we’ve passed Tokyo and Yokohama, it’s so nice to see the green spaces and
the rice paddies and the farmhouses and the mountains. I think October is
the time of the rice harvest.
One of my favorite things to
see from the window of the train is the stack of cut rice fashioned to look like
its kanji character (米).
The neat lines of the paddies look like the kanji, too (田).
The farther west we traveled, the more I saw rice that was harvested and
stacked. In the east, the rice still looked green.
As I look out the window, I'm
flooded with sights of the countryside. The clusters of houses with
ceramic-tiled roofs zoom by. Mountains as a backdrop. Industrial buildings:
Shiseido, Knorr, Foleo. I saw two white cranes (or were they herons?), one
standing in a rice field, one flying between two rice paddies. People
riding bikes on a lonely road cutting through fields.
Once in Kyoto, we take a short walk to the hotel where we have a few minutes to
check in, drop our bags in our rooms, freshen up and grab a quick bite to eat
before walking back to the train station to make our way to Nagoya for our
second game of the tour.
On the train I sat next to a
lovely Japanese lady who was on her way to visit her daughter in Tokyo. We
spoke in Japanese, mainly about food and travel, and although I understood about
80% of what she said, I was pleased with the conversation.
I find that once most Japanese
people realize that I am capable of speaking Japanese, they are happy to talk.
They slow it down for me, though, and it's almost as if their vocabulary changes
to accommodate my third-grade level.
JapanBall
- Going Backward to Day 3: Nagoya
So I mentioned in my last post that we took the
shinkansen to Kyoto then back to Nagoya to see a game between the Yokohama
BayStars and the Chunichi Dragons at the Nagoya Dome.
This was an exciting game to see because the
crowd was really into it, and the food was great. The shrimp burger is
to die for. I also bought a pair of koala ears, and I think wearing them
made a big difference in how much I enjoyed the game.
Now let's move forward to Sunday. In the morning Marc and LA Jon
shinkansened it over to Osaka to take a look at the castle there before
meeting the rest of at Osaka's Kyocera Dome.
We took in an afternoon game between the Seibu Lions and the Orix
Buffaloes. Sadly, the crowd was sparse, but the food was the best yet.
The omusoba, and omelet wrapped around yaki soba noodles, was
scrumptious.

Thanks to Kentucky Joe for holding the plate for
me. (Note the air
conditioned seats in the background!) Later in the day I had the
oden, a dish that is normally served during the cold-weather months and has
boiled daikon (a Japanese radish), egg, fish cakes, and konnyaku (a starchy yam
product).

After the game we piled onto an express train to Kyoto and had dinner at a
bar-b-que restaurant. I'm not talking pulled pork and hush puppies like
you'll find in my home state of North Carolina.
This was an
all-you-can-eat, cook-at-the-table feast with platters upon platters of thinly
sliced red meat and tons of vegetables. See the aftermath below.

JapanBall:
Forgot About Crazy!
How could I forget to write about the crazy guy who dances at
the Kyocera Dome in Osaka?
We saw him on the scoreboard several times during the Orix
Buffaloes game, and one of the group - I think it was Marc - spotted him in
the stands not too far away from us.
LA Jon, who has been giving away Takashi Saito bobbleheads
to people he deems worthy of receiving them - the criteria seems fluid -
decided this guy deserved the honor.
Here's part of his routine:

The text in the picture reads,
pachi
pachi pachi wo shite ne, and means beating one's chest, which the guy
eventually does. By the way,
shite
is pronounced "she-tay," and it means "doing," so
don't think I'm printing profanity.
I asked the Japanese guy sitting two seats down from me what pachi
pachi pachi meant, and he beat his chest and said, "Pachi
pachi pachi." The Japanese like onomatopoeia.
So anyway, when LA Jon decided that our crazy fan needed to "win"
the Saito bobblehead, I went with him to record the momentous occasion in
digital media.

As you can see, our new friend was pleased to receive LA Jon's
gesture of goodwill. He was also impressed that Jon spoke to him in
Japanese.
A friend of Mr. Pachi Pachi Pachi told us - in English - that
this guy has been going to Buffaloes home games for forty-two years and is a
fixture at the stadium. The fans roared each time they saw him on the
scoreboard.
Here is a shot of LA Jon with Mr. Pachi Pachi Pachi and
friends:

JapanBall
2008 - The Wrap-Up
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Our tour of Japanese baseball
with Bob Bavasi and Mayumi Smith of JapanBall.com ended more than a week
ago, and I'm finally taking the time now to reflect on the trip. It was an
incredible experience, regardless of one's interest level in baseball or
in Japan. |
As I wrote in my final story for YESNetwork.com, you'll become a
fan of both Japanese baseball and the country after spending a week with Bob and
Mayumi.
| They've been doing this for a
long time, and they have it down to a science.
Bob is a skilled tactician, keeping all of
the "moving parts" as he liked to call them, in play.
Mayumi, in addition to being our
interpreter, made sure that we saw more than just baseball and gave us an
opportunity to experience many of Japan's important cultural sites.
The pace of the schedule was hectic, but it
never felt as if we were running around with no purpose. |

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What did we do and see?
-
Five baseball games in five
stadiums in four different cities (Meiji Jingu Stadium in Tokyo, Nagoya Dome
in Nagoya, Kyocera Dome in Osaka, Fukuoka Yahoo! Japan Dome in Fukuoka,
Koshien Stadium Osaka)
They planned events, but they
gave us the option to participate or not; it was up to us.
When Marc and I first decided to
go on this tour, we thought we'd be the ones who didn't participate. We
didn't think we'd be good with the group tour thing and having our days
mapped out for us.
Yet we ended up joining the
group for all of the cultural side trips because we genuinely enjoyed
meeting the other folks and finding out what possessed them to fly to the
other side of the world and crisscross the country to watch Japanese
baseball games.
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